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Topic Title: Install of Oven and Hob Supply Circuit - Advice Required
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Created On: 12 August 2014 11:02 AM
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 12 August 2014 11:02 AM
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ACD1

Posts: 6
Joined: 12 August 2014

Hi All, I'm new so please bear with

As diagram suggests, I'm going from the CU to built under oven and ceramic hob.

At the moment there is a 40amp MCB going to 10mm T&E that was for a shower supply. That is now redundant. What I was going to do is use the current circuit and pick it up in the loft, single junction off it and run it down to the kitchen to supply the set up. I would probs change the MCB to a 32amp.

I'll stick with the 10mm as this is what 1/3 of the circuit is now.

Does this look ok? and what wire would be best from the Isolator downwards into the dual cooker outlet?

Thanks.

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Edited: 12 August 2014 at 11:11 AM by ACD1
 12 August 2014 11:15 AM
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daveparry1

Posts: 6328
Joined: 04 July 2007

Welcome to the forum, the system doesn't allow new users to post links.
What you're proposing sounds ok, 6mm t/e would be adequate from the isolator to the dual outlet.
 12 August 2014 11:28 AM
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ACD1

Posts: 6
Joined: 12 August 2014

Originally posted by: daveparry1

Welcome to the forum, the system doesn't allow new users to post links.

What you're proposing sounds ok, 6mm t/e would be adequate from the isolator to the dual outlet.


Ahh ok I wondered what was going on. Thanks for your reply.

From the dual outlet I was going to hardwire the Hob and the other to a 13amp switch for the oven and plug it in so it has it's own lower amp break. Would that be ok?

Oh and the 10mm t&e from the CU is around 45 foot to the isolator junction.
 12 August 2014 01:24 PM
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AJJewsbury

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Joined: 13 August 2003

Bear in mind that joint boxes that'll accept 2x 10mm2 are a bit of a speciality - they are available (e.g. http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AAJB60.html ) but you might struggle at local suppliers.

"13amp switch for the oven and plug it in" - did you mean a 13A socket?
- Andy.
 12 August 2014 01:43 PM
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ACD1

Posts: 6
Joined: 12 August 2014

Originally posted by: AJJewsbury

Bear in mind that joint boxes that'll accept 2x 10mm2 are a bit of a speciality - they are available (e.g. Link removed/Products/AAJB60.html ) but you might struggle at local suppliers.



"13amp switch for the oven and plug it in" - did you mean a 13A socket?

- Andy.


Thank you Andy and yes I meant socket - Will plug the oven and just go into the socket.
 12 August 2014 02:12 PM
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Jaymack

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Originally posted by: ACD1
Will plug the oven and just go into the socket.

Does the oven come with a plug? If so, then it's probably suitable to be plugged in; if it doesn't, what is the kW rating and what does the instructions state?

Regards
 12 August 2014 05:16 PM
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ACD1

Posts: 6
Joined: 12 August 2014

Originally posted by: Jaymack

Originally posted by: ACD1

Will plug the oven and just go into the socket.


Does the oven come with a plug? If so, then it's probably suitable to be plugged in; if it doesn't, what is the kW rating and what does the instructions state?


No there is no pre-wired plug. The kW rating is 2.3kW and the fuse is minimum 13a. Should be ok?
 12 August 2014 07:39 PM
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ACD1

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Just had a proper look and the power from the CU to the supply is actually 6mm T&E grrrrr. With diversity think this would be ok on a 32a mcb just powering the hob and oven and nothing else? oven 2.3kW and hob is showing 5800w with minimum 25a fuse.
 12 August 2014 08:10 PM
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daveparry1

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Yes that will be fine, a standard cooker circuit consisting of a 32 amp type B mcb and a 6.00mm t/e cable is good for up to 15kW on a domestic cooker supply, subject to installation method of course, (cable not buried in thermal insulation etc.)
 12 August 2014 08:18 PM
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ACD1

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Joined: 12 August 2014

Originally posted by: daveparry1

Yes that will be fine, a standard cooker circuit consisting of a 32 amp type B mcb and a 6.00mm t/e cable is good for up to 15kW on a domestic cooker supply, subject to installation method of course, (cable not buried in thermal insulation etc.)


Thanks for the reply. Yeah from the CU into the loft it's channelled into the wall, pretty much open in the loft then channelled down the other wall to the isolation.
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