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Topic Title: For all U lighting bods
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Created On: 01 May 2013 02:16 PM
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 01 May 2013 02:16 PM
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Avatar for frspikeyhead.
frspikeyhead

Posts: 804
Joined: 27 December 2004

Am I not correct in assuming that it is far cheaper to buy halogen fire rated downlights and change the lamp for an LED version than pay out rediculous money for an LED downlight?
 01 May 2013 03:19 PM
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Cremeegg

Posts: 521
Joined: 13 July 2007

Depending on the cans and lamps you use - maybe. Will a new LED lamp fit in the existing can? Some are too long - some too wide. Will the LED have enough air movement around it to dissipate the heat when stuck in the existing (probably rather small) can. LED's are great but they don't like getting hot and have large heat sinks on them for a reason.

Halers H2 down to around £25 - I suspect others are cheaper but haven't looked lately as Aurora and JCC amongst others have brought out new ranges that I've yet to try. Some 7W LED GU10 lamps around £15 to £17 from recent experience.
 01 May 2013 06:55 PM
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dickllewellyn

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Our local wilts are selling megaman LEDs now at less than a tenner, I've found them to be very good. I was using the aurora fire rated cans with the heat sink on the back designed to be insulated over, but they have been discontinued. Now I tend to use a cheap and cheerful open backed fitting, and fit hoods if there is a fire rating requirement. I was recently chastised by an independent building inspector for not fitting fire rated fittings or hoods on a project. I explained that I felt there was little sense in old lathe and plaster ceilings, but she assured me that they would still withhold fire for twenty minutes or so, and that she will not sign off the build if it is not maintained. That was a new one on me!

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Richard (Dick)

"Insert words of wisdom and/or witty pun here"
 01 May 2013 07:45 PM
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rocknroll

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I explained that I felt there was little sense in old lathe and plaster ceilings, but she assured me that they would still withhold fire for twenty minutes or so, and that she will not sign off the build if it is not maintained.


Thats the way, keep you on your toes I say, domestic ceilings have a fire rating of 30 minutes by default due to the type of coverings that are employed.

The regs if you really really want;

Ceiling below roof, C2, L1 & P1 (2 & 3 storey)(non fire rated).

2 storey, basement, garage and first floor including loft conversions, B3, E2, L1 and P1

3 storey, basement, garage, first and second floor including loft conversions, B3, E2, L1 and P1.

Your BC has a technical guidance document prepared by the RICS, could be on their site or just ask for a copy.

regards

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"Take nothing but a picture,
leave nothing but footprints!"
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"Oh! The drama of it all."
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"You can throw all the philosophy you like at the problem, but at the end of the day it's just basic electrical theory!"
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 01 May 2013 09:43 PM
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leckie

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Jcc fire rated down lights take the megaman 6w dimmable lamps. Just don't try to actually dim them! Hardly any of the dimmers will work for more than about 6 fittings.
 01 May 2013 10:33 PM
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prophet

Posts: 194
Joined: 09 October 2011

Originally posted by: dickllewellyn

Our local wilts are selling megaman LEDs now at less than a tenner, I've found them to be very good. I was using the aurora fire rated cans with the heat sink on the back designed to be insulated over, but they have been discontinued. Now I tend to use a cheap and cheerful open backed fitting, and fit hoods if there is a fire rating requirement. I was recently chastised by an independent building inspector for not fitting fire rated fittings or hoods on a project. I explained that I felt there was little sense in old lathe and plaster ceilings, but she assured me that they would still withhold fire for twenty minutes or so, and that she will not sign off the build if it is not maintained. That was a new one on me!


Agreed.
Those meggerman lamps seem to have the best light output
 02 May 2013 07:29 AM
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leckie

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I was told that the building regs do not always require fire-rated downlights. I told that its if the area of the holes made exceed a certain percentage of the surface area of the ceiling. This was from a building engineer, but I haven't got a copy of the building regs to check this.

I remember some years ago that ERA did some tests on this and I think that basically they drilled holes in the ceiling of a room and set fire to it. They concluded that unless the holes exceed a certain diameter that the fire rating of the ceiling was not affected I believe.
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