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Topic Title: NEFF & DETRICH Appliances
Topic Summary: Problems identifying actual current ratings.
Created On: 01 May 2013 12:05 PM
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 01 May 2013 12:05 PM
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whjohnson

Posts: 716
Joined: 24 January 2009

Am attempting to find current ratings for these items in order to size cables correctly.

There seems to be some confusion as what the actual load ratings are by the way of the quoted figures.
Does anyone know if the given ratings are for the current draw once the appliance has reached its preset temp,(I.E. energy consumed per hour) or are these figures valid for start up (where the current draw will be higher)

Neff C57M7ON3GB combi microwave and oven - 2KW?

Neff B45M52N3GB single oven - 3.68KW?

Detrich DTI1053X induction hob - 7.2KW?

Any help would be great.
Am looking at running SWA across outside gable end from CU position to kitchen, then through wall at either end to cooker switch positions and would like to size the SWA correctly. (Less upheaval than digging out decorated walls and tearing the upstairs bedrooms to bits)

Am thinking of reusing an existing 6.00mm T&E for the 7.2 KW hob, but running a 4.00mm 3 core SWA for the 3.68KW single oven, and 2.5mm 3 core SWA for the 2.0 KW combi microwave.
Although the microwave is on a 13A plug, the separate 2.5mm SWA will take the load off the existing single Ring for the whole house.

Anyone with an insight as to the actual current draw for these appliances please chime in.

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Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
 01 May 2013 12:42 PM
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AJJewsbury

Posts: 11349
Joined: 13 August 2003

My guess would be the figures are maximum load (not necessarily just during startup, but any time the thermostat switches on) - the numbers sound plausible for that basis.

I wouldn't have thought you'd have much diversity available looking at each oven on its own (when it's on it's on - and could be for a significant time if it's going to a high temperature from cold) - there might be a bit with the hob though (as presumably it'll have 4 or 5 zones with a low likelihood of all of them being on full power at the same time for a significant time). If you were combining an oven and the hob, the old 100% of the first 10A, 30% of the rest rule would seem applicable.

Some induction hobs have the ability to limit their overall power draw (by reducing the power to one hob in order to boost another) - some of those can even be programmed to stay within a certain current limit (10A, 13A, 16A etc) - so a detailed read of the instruction manual might be beneficial.

- Andy.
 06 May 2013 10:44 PM
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Martynduerden

Posts: 3211
Joined: 13 July 2008

Well ill start by saying dont call naff.

I made the mistake of asking them some technical questions as their total connected load figures are boll*#%s, they didn't have a clue and suggested a cable of 10mm for a single oven!

What they do is add the load of all elements together and quote that, even though its not actually possible to simultaneously draw the load of all elements.

I had the customer pack up all the appliances and send them back!

I refuse to fit them nowadays.

-------------------------
Regards

Martyn.

Only a mediocre person is always at their best



www.electrical contractors uk.com
 07 May 2013 06:46 AM
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normcall

Posts: 8118
Joined: 15 January 2005

Just in the middle of having a new kitchen fitted (new hob and oven) and they said I had to have two new 10mm cables from the fusebox to the kitchen. I asked why as they are just replacements for what existed.
'That's what the loading is and manufacturers say', they said. You can guess my comment.
You will not be surprised that the new loading is less that we had, and everything still works!

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Norman
 07 May 2013 06:58 AM
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ebee

Posts: 5672
Joined: 02 December 2004

Norm,
was it indeed what the manufacturer said or just their interpretation that was complete boldylolloks ?

-------------------------
Regards,
Ebee (M I S P N)

Knotted cables cause Lumpy Lektrik
 07 May 2013 07:47 AM
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dickllewellyn

Posts: 1150
Joined: 19 March 2010

Watch those combi microwaves. Quite a few of them require a 20A circuit which you don't find out until the appliances are produced at the end of the job!

Martyn has hit the nail on the head with ratings too. They literally add up all the elements, but neglect to mention that it will either be the fan element, the top or bottom element, or top and bottom. Never all three!

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Richard (Dick)

"Insert words of wisdom and/or witty pun here"
 07 May 2013 01:59 PM
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normcall

Posts: 8118
Joined: 15 January 2005

Ebee - the book says 'Use correct mains cable of type Ho5BB-F Tmax (90 deg or higher) for a single or two phase connection.'
On each of the terminal blocks, the outgoing cables look about 2.5mm stranded for a 6kw load (nominal power (maximum heat setting)).
On the oven it says don't use both ovens at the same time.

Where is that left hand when you want one?

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Norman
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