Hi all

I seem to be getting through these at a rate of knots and I don't think I treat my tools THAT badly.

First up, I tried a Di-Log one
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Im...s/size_3/TMDL6780.JPG

Within 12 months the lead had worn thought to the copper where it enters the top of the tester. I sent it back and they sent me a free replacement. Within 12 months - same thing...Design fault then I think. I know you can get a carry case for these, but they are a bit of a faff to use and I want easy, quick access to the tester. I know that if I had a case, I'd end up not using it.

So, tried the Steinel one
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Im...ts/size_3/STCOMBI.JPG

So far so good - but now the catch for the batteries has busted and won't lock - so it won't work. Tried to repair it, but want it to be properly OK as my life might depend on it!

SO, can anyone suggest where to next? I don't mind spending a bit more for something that will last as it will be cheaper and safer in the long run

Cheers

BB

At risk of being a bit old fashioned, I'd get a cyclim or drummond test lamps and a seperate continuity tester (or a friedland bell and a battery in a plastic box).

It's much safer to have just a test lamps - you only use them for that job, you can sick one end into a terminal in the DB and then just touch the other end against every cable you want to handle - much safer than touching the copper first.

They are also handy for a bit of basic RCD testing etc

I do like the steinel unit - but I don't use it that often

I'm sure the technogeeks will be along with a super duper whizzy one soon though -

Regards

OMS

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Failure is always an option

for me its a fluke t5-1000. mine sits in my toolbag, and gets bashed about, but its fine. I know i should get a case for it.

Avoid the Mettrel Hanyman red tester ................ went through 4 in a week as they constantly failed to measure voltage and sound for continuity.

Had the same problem with the digilog as you within 2 weeks, where the cable enters the tester in the shroud they wear and snap of at the point of entry, I had a replacement from Digilog with the "FAFF" around case ................ so far so good.

Regards

Daren

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..... Dont pee in my pocket and tell me its raining ......


www.quest-electrical-sw.co.uk

Thanks for the replies folks. That Fluke looks nice - but not sure I need the current measuring part (or do I?)

Do they do one without?

fluke T120 or T140. Nice rubber on the lead, hard boot to cover the probes (they go through the boot on the dilog ones and stab your hand in the toolbag as the rubber is made of chewing gum)

Single probe voltage warning, i could sing its praises all day long.

A dilog one will last me maybe 10 months, a fluke T140 once lasted me 5 years. After that, i was glad it broke so i could buy a new toy.

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Lack of planning on your part doesn't make it an emergency on mine....

Every man has to know his limitations- Dirty Harry

Although im a 'Megger' fan, go with the Fluke T5 series as they are as hard as nails, they last a lifetime. They are expensive but worth every penny. Try eBay, as they sometimes pop up

Hi Brucie, how's tricks?

I was once given an old draper voltage tester. it wouldn't pass any up to date BS standards and all it does is light up to register voltage. No continuity, no diode testing, no bells. All it does is light up to tell you if there is voltage and approximately how much. To this day, with one probe half melted and the scale faded to nothing I still use it. Because I trust it with my life, because it tells me about voltage only. I also have an old drummond test lamp which JP gave me years ago and I love it just as much. It simply lights up and is great for demonstrating to customers.

Bearing in mind that the old draper votage testers are probably not available any more I would absolutely recommend a test lamp. They don't have an app for the iPhone, the don't do bluetooth, not even a well chosen ding to suit your mood...That says quite a bit about my working practice since my doorbell is state of the art and I am addicted to the apptastic phone and little styluses etc. I'm in an iCloud type of heaven and downloading music in lay-byes at lunchtime these days, but never such a thing with my voltage confirmation.

For continuity, I use a steinel multi thing ( I don't know, it is black and has a button on it) but it does voltage and continuity etc. and I wish it only did continuity. my next will be one of the aforemetioned Flukes which are great little bits of kit.

Do both.....someone on here might have an old test lamp to swap with you for a curious old breaker or the like. So cheap that they won't break your heart when they break and can live amongst the other tools without a posh case.

Mine live in a puppy-shaped pencil case but of course I didn't tell you that.

Zs

DON'T get a Fluke 120 - they trip RCDs.

Very sturdy it might be, but after 2 days use it's been in my shed for the past two years unused.

What's the point of a voltage tester that takes out RCD's?!!

There's a rigmarole you can go through to not trip RCDs, but it's a performance you don't want to do.

[edit]
Rigmarole is:
For voltage tests (L towards PE) in systems with RCD devices, the RCD may be triggered. To avoid RCD tripping first test between L and N (approx. 5s). Immediately afterwards testing L towards PE can be carried out without RCD tripping
[/edit]

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S George
http://www.state-it.com

Edited: 21 August 2012 at 11:10 PM by stateit

Be careful guys, test lamps do not display a live/ live condition.

I dont think test lamps will get you through 'that day every year' either, in fact it could go quite badly......

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Lack of planning on your part doesn't make it an emergency on mine....

Every man has to know his limitations- Dirty Harry

Good point.
Just as well they still make neon screwdrivers.

LOL

In a similar vein - I'll use my Voltstick for indicating live , but not proving dead!

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S George
http://www.state-it.com

The type of test instrument, designed and manufactured in days of yore, by apprentices, together with my first test lamp for 415V, with 2 pigmy lamps in series on a tufnol base, with tufnol insulated brass prods and rubber leads.

My first continuity tester was a nice varnished, wooden box with brass hinged lid and catch, but with no warnings of "voltage present". They must have been a cause of a few accidents; I wouldn't advocate their use nowadays.

Regards

Our guys use a standard martindale voltage indicating device and associated proving unit

To misquote Mr Capon "there ain't much you can't solve with a screwdriver stuck in the flower bed"

Every instrument has limitations - you just need to be aware of what you are testing and what you are looking for.

regards

OMS

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Failure is always an option

I've had my Fluke T5 600 for 12 years now. It's never let me down once - and you can buy clip on/off leads that are fused and 2mm metal ended and finger guarded etc etc for when mr/mre health and safety is checking on the compliance of your kit.

I definitely recommend it if they still sell it - It costs £100 odd now I think and worth every penny.

Edited to say: I never use the actual reading from the multimeter, just a beep is all I want or need from it. I always check on the ohms function first that the leads are connected corrrectly before going to the votage function. I also always use a fluke voltage pen as a last check before touching. So it does have it's down sides - check the leads are connected every single time. I would also like it if the amp clamp was at least twice the size.

Regards
Tatty

Edited: 22 August 2012 at 09:50 PM by tattyinengland

I wouldn't recommend fused leads for continuity testing, rather an internal fuse. Too much variance in readings in my experience, dependent on the orientation when holding the leads vertically or horizontally.

Regards

Well made and robust, but a bad design ergonomically.

Mike,

You are entitled to your opinion, i think its good kit, hade mine for 20 years still works fine,still compliant.

My Fluke T5 died the other week, after 7 ish years :-(

So rather than get one of the new ones, with the faffy non trip RCD sequence, i went for a Megger TPT220, which you have to press a button to trip an RCD.

I will still be on the look out for another pair of the T5's though. Very very robust