Designing a kitchen appliance circuit, i plan to feed a bank of grid switches with a 6mm T&E fed via a 32A MCB, then each switch will have a 2.5mm cable to a fcu supplying an under counter appliance.
My main question is, is it ok to change down to 2.5mm and then feeding the FCU? As the cable cannot be overloaded as the main load is connected to the FCU at position?

Regards

It sounds ok in theory but how are you going terminate the 6mm to feed the grid switches ?

Will you get 2 x 6mm in a grid switch terminal ?


Stu

Difficult if not impossible to loop the 6mm (or even 4mm) supply between the feed side of the grid switches. I would take a 2.5 ring to the grid box.

Yes i was thinking about maybe taking the feed as 6mm then looping with 4mm across terminals? Im going to get the data sheet on the switches tomorrow as i have seen some that supposedly take 2x 6mm! But yes slittle that is a good point!

Even if you do get 2x 6mm into the terminal, I doubt you will manage to fasten the grid into the back box!

Regards,

Alan.

Yes i think i may have to op with looping with 4mm, someone has said run a ring circuit to the grid switch?? I fail to see how this would even be worthwhile?

2.5 is way easier in a grid switch.

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Those who make no mistakes do very little work!!......

How about spurring off the 6mm2 with a few of these - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WA173.html in the back box - then each 20A switch terminal only has to accommodate a single 2.5mm2 and there'll be no worries about loop through current exceeding the switch terminals' ratings.
- Andy.

Yeah I like that AJJewsbury do you use these things alot? are they pretty failproof?

I've not used a huge number (yet) - but the few I have used have given no trouble. Technology-wise they seem pretty similar to the ones used in fluorescent fittings for many years now and have generally seemed to have stood the test of time (unlike the usual screw-terminal 5A fuse carrier in the same fittings which seems to burn out with monotonous regularity).
- Andy.

True i may get me a selection to keep on the van.

Reminds of a few years ago when I was in a wholesalers -
Sparky (apparently) came in & wanted a cut length of 16mm T&E
& a 45mm pull cord switch - he wanted to wire a shower we all said 'best of luck bud'

Maybe the customer is very tall

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Resistance is futile.

Is this a domestic kitchen? If so, aren't individual switches/fcu's for each appliance a bit naff? I went through a phase of doing that and half the kitchens looked like Star Ship Enterprise flight deck. I also used to do the tiling so all those extra boxes teed me off. Now I just put a SO in the cabinet adjacent to the appliance (obviously not the cooker/hob)

Yeah i don't always do this but at the request of the customer i am doing it, as i keep hearing do a staggered rfc to the grid switch, but i just think why when i can run a radial straight to it? I think i am going to install a 4mm and that should be fine a 6mm is probably over kill!!

Yeah i don't always do this but at the request of the customer i am doing it, as i keep hearing do a staggered rfc to the grid switch, but i just think why when i can run a radial straight to it? I think i am going to install a 4mm and that should be fine a 6mm is probably over kill!!

I found this site with great reviews regarding kitchen appliances:

Link removed/

What do they want a ugly grid switch on the wall for?

Have to agree with that sentiment, it does look naff, much prefer a neat row of say sockets and a double pole switch or SFU for the under worktop sockets and accessories.

regards

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"Take nothing but a picture,
leave nothing but footprints!"
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"Oh! The drama of it all."
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"You can throw all the philosophy you like at the problem, but at the end of the day it's just basic electrical theory!"
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I think this thread has been bumped by the omnipotent kitchen selling man.

But your link to wago connectors from back then is cute Andy.

And anyway, I'd have built the fuses into the grid switch. I wonder what Snapey did in the end?