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Topic Title: Consumer Unit Back Board
Topic Summary: What material for back boards?
Created On: 29 July 2008 12:59 PM
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 29 July 2008 12:59 PM
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mikeford

Posts: 7
Joined: 23 November 2002

We're about to have a meter move so not a new installation but...

What material do you use to mount consumer units on?

If all electrical items on the board are enclosed does it need to be fireproof?
The meter tails will be split via a service connection block, is it normal to enclose these in adaptable boxes?

If the board DOES need to be fireproof what do you use - builders merchants seem to have no idea!

Thanks
 29 July 2008 01:41 PM
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dmulholland

Posts: 79
Joined: 01 February 2008

Ply , mdf or chipboard
 29 July 2008 01:47 PM
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perspicacious

Posts: 7239
Joined: 18 April 2006

Doesn't your meter supplier require a certificate confirming that what they are about to (re)connect to is compliant?

Regards

BOD
 29 July 2008 04:04 PM
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mikeford

Posts: 7
Joined: 23 November 2002

dmulholland: So no need to be fireproof then?

perspicacious: No mention - the organisation has been a shambles. I paid NEDL (our dno) to "move the meter", they subbed it to Freedom Electrical who said they don't move meters "contact your supplier" [Southern Electric]. After denying responsibility Southern finally decided they should do the meter move with Freedom moving the cables. Southern will sub it to MeterPlus as we're "not in their area"...
I fully expect major problems when everybody turns up on site. For our local Building Control, the work is being done under an existing project.

Anyway - unless anybody says "fireproof board" it looks like ply...

Edited: 29 July 2008 at 04:11 PM by mikeford
 29 July 2008 04:11 PM
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Jason1958

Posts: 60
Joined: 25 March 2008

> So no need to be fireproof then?

No. Modern consumer units are fully enclosed.

Any of the materials suggested are fine.
Plywood is best if the area is ever likely to be damp.
 29 July 2008 06:14 PM
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daveparry1

Posts: 6239
Joined: 04 July 2007

I always mount D/B's straight onto the wall, why would you need a backboard with a modern one? Unless it's a stud wall I suppose, even then it will be plasterboard so still ok is it not?
 29 July 2008 06:46 PM
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Platypus

Posts: 465
Joined: 20 January 2005

I'm going to mount mine onto 20mm ply or rather I'm going to line the entire back of a full-height 2400x600x200mm wiring cupboard with it.

Simply because ply makes it easy to clip T+E and easy to mount ancilliary equipment, eg SWA termination boxes, without breaking out the drill and getting brick dust in everything.

Not a common domestic setup I grant you...
 29 July 2008 08:05 PM
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budha

Posts: 159
Joined: 09 June 2008

i've always thought that the meter etc was mounted on the boards so if the dno had to take it away for some reason its only there property they are taking,or that was i was told during my apprenticeship .(a fair few years ago granted)

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budha,
nice talking with you.
 29 July 2008 09:59 PM
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Testit

Posts: 2962
Joined: 06 August 2007

screw straight through the ply with 6mm hammer drill and screw in then it may halve your overall mounting time and ease clipping or securing cable as said... cant say I do it in domestic much mind.. but I wished I did it when I was mounting copper tubing the other week in my attick, mounting straight to the wall made it so much more difficult to align the pipework...

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Online Services - http://propertydevelopment.org.uk

Experience can sometimes show that cost prevails over quality and safety, such little self-value that people hold.

Edited: 29 July 2008 at 09:59 PM by Testit
 29 July 2008 10:54 PM
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ebee

Posts: 5725
Joined: 02 December 2004

Always fit a board (walls are never flat and distort modern CUs).
Use stand off collars (plastic conduit does nicely) - might be a slightly damp cellar wall.

Also allows space for rear entry of cables.

I think it should be fire resistant but hey if the CU catches fire then you`re not extra concerned about the bloody board are you?

An oversize board (space permiting) allows extras around the CU (bell TX, extra surface socket etc)

-------------------------
Regards,
Ebee (M I S P N)

Knotted cables cause Lumpy Lektrik
 29 July 2008 11:20 PM
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deleted_johnwoods

Posts: 997
Joined: 05 September 2005

In France (where I am now) most CUs have an open back, no idea why they do this. I usually mount them on melamine boards, the white shelf type stuff, especially kitchen worktop where space permits. You can buy thin worktop (about 15mm) which is fairly heatproof.

That said ply is ideal if the box is enclosed.

Haven't posted here for about a year but have a few questions stored up. Off to bed now as it is past midnight here.

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 29 July 2008 11:24 PM
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ebee

Posts: 5725
Joined: 02 December 2004

Well serves you ret for living in France, we are still wide awake here.
LOL
good nite lad

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Regards,
Ebee (M I S P N)

Knotted cables cause Lumpy Lektrik
 20 February 2013 02:52 AM
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BrunaRibeiro

Posts: 1
Joined: 20 February 2013

I suggest lighweight concrete panels (usually precast) or lighweight concrete hollow blocks. This is the most commonly used in building structures.

Another is fiber cement board. This is specially used in ceilings and drywall partitions. It is waterproof and fireproof.

Another is gypsum board. It has the same function with fiber cement board. This is more fireproof than fiber cement board but water can damage it.

Goodluck

Edited: 01 March 2014 at 06:00 PM by BrunaRibeiro
 20 February 2013 07:06 AM
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welchyboy

Posts: 49
Joined: 08 September 2011

So the power networks company and meter outfits are equally as useless in your area too then, i thought it was just round near me
 20 February 2013 07:26 AM
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lomasjs

Posts: 31
Joined: 17 January 2002

For what it'sworth, my DNO Cutout and meter are fastened to a piece of plain old 6x1 mounted on 2x1's fixed to the wall that looks as though it's been there for at least 50 years. CU's are on flooring grade moisture resistant chipboard on 2x1 so cable can enter from rear.

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lomasjs
 20 February 2013 08:00 PM
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aligarjon

Posts: 2867
Joined: 09 September 2005

Originally posted by: BrunaRibeiro

I suggest lighweight concrete panels (usually precast) or lighweight concrete hollow blocks. This is the most commonly used in building structures.



Another is fiber cement board. This is specially used in ceilings and drywall partitions. It is waterproof and fireproof.



Another is gypsum board. It has the same function with fiber cement board. This is more fireproof than fiber cement board but water can damage it.



Goodluck



FIRE RESISTANT BOARD





hopefully they have sorted it by now, they usually get there within 5 years.

Gary

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