IET logo
 
IET
Decrease font size
Increase font size
Topic Title: Bevelled tiles and accessory plates
Topic Summary:
Created On: 09 January 2015 12:40 PM
Status: Read Only
Linear : Threading : Single : Branch
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - TimJWatts - 09 January 2015 12:40 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - allaway - 09 January 2015 01:17 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - TimJWatts - 09 January 2015 02:24 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - mapj1 - 09 January 2015 01:21 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - TimJWatts - 09 January 2015 02:29 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - mapj1 - 09 January 2015 02:41 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - TimJWatts - 09 January 2015 03:14 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - Manxie - 09 January 2015 03:02 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - TimJWatts - 09 January 2015 03:09 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - Manxie - 09 January 2015 03:12 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - TimJWatts - 09 January 2015 03:19 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - mapj1 - 09 January 2015 05:04 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - TimJWatts - 09 January 2015 05:25 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - davezawadi - 09 January 2015 05:39 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - TimJWatts - 10 January 2015 06:00 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - aligarjon - 09 January 2015 05:40 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - davezawadi - 09 January 2015 05:55 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - TimJWatts - 09 January 2015 06:48 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - aligarjon - 09 January 2015 06:51 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - TimJWatts - 09 January 2015 10:12 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - mapj1 - 10 January 2015 12:32 AM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - TimJWatts - 09 January 2015 06:45 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - weirdbeard - 09 January 2015 06:49 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - peteTLM - 09 January 2015 07:00 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - Phillron - 09 January 2015 07:14 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - TimJWatts - 09 January 2015 10:13 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - TimJWatts - 09 January 2015 10:13 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - AJJewsbury - 12 January 2015 04:34 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - davezawadi - 12 January 2015 10:31 PM  
 Bevelled tiles and accessory plates   - AJJewsbury - 13 January 2015 09:14 AM  
Search Topic Search Topic
Topic Tools Topic Tools
View similar topics View similar topics
View topic in raw text format. Print this topic.
 09 January 2015 12:40 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



TimJWatts

Posts: 421
Joined: 07 August 2013

What do you do?

The missus fancies some "metro" style tiles in the kitchen I'm renovating, like these:

Metro tile

However, one thing I'm not happy about (whilst I like the style) is the fact I have about 10 socket and other plates in the tiled area.

Now, I could arrange (probably) for the tiles to not have a bevel along the top (IP4X) edge of a plate or along the bottom, but it's going to be impossible to avoid at the sides. And thinking about it, there's going to be at least one vertical tile joint intersecting with the top edge that must be closed up. Even if the side gaps meet teh IP rating by the book, I'll want to close those up too as they will look ugly and I consider them at risk of water ingress as tiled walls get washed.

Filling the gap with silicone is a bodge and will make things tedious if removing the plate for inspection.

Are there any clever ways of dealing with this problem before I veto her tile choice? Something like a white metal or plastic trim that can go behind the plate and can be grouted in providing a flat surface for the accessory plate to mate to?

I'm sure someone must have come across this problem as these tiles seem in fashion now?

Thanks for any ideas

Tim
 09 January 2015 01:17 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



allaway

Posts: 221
Joined: 08 July 2007

What about using some deep plasterboard boxes? Cut away most of the outside wings leaving just enough to hold the faceplate screws in place and fix using screws through the back ...
 09 January 2015 02:24 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



TimJWatts

Posts: 421
Joined: 07 August 2013

Originally posted by: allaway

What about using some deep plasterboard boxes? Cut away most of the outside wings leaving just enough to hold the faceplate screws in place and fix using screws through the back ...


That's an interesting idea. Looking at them again, if I cut the front bezel off with 5mm or so of box, that could form quite a nice bit of trim.

Could tack it on with some NoMoreNails, pop a Yoozy collar on (the sockets are live currently and need to stay that way) and grout up to and under the trim where it lies over the tile joints.

I was considering laser cutting some custom trim (I know of someone with a cutter) but this will be cheaper and might actually work better as it will be able to sit inside the plaster edge which will make tackking it on probably easier.

Thank you - that goes on the solution list for trial.
 09 January 2015 01:21 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



mapj1

Posts: 9692
Joined: 22 July 2004

Not tried this with sockets, but I have used to great effect on hatches in fibreglass radomes with err 'tolerance issues'.

Also I recall seeing metal fronted accessories used to come with sticky backed spongy gasket.

The stuff I'm thinking of a bit like a dense version of the door draft excluder. the self adhesive sort comes on a sheet attached to a release sheet that feels like grease-proofed baking paper .

You only need to make it proof against the British Standard finger and splashing.

A picture of the stuff but you need it in narrower widths, obviously..

How deep a change in level are you accommodating?

-------------------------
regards Mike
 09 January 2015 02:29 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



TimJWatts

Posts: 421
Joined: 07 August 2013

Originally posted by: mapj1
<snip>

Also I recall seeing metal fronted accessories used to come with sticky backed spongy gasket.

How deep a change in level are you accommodating?


As did the Miele hob I fitted - that dry fitted into a worktop cutout and relied on a 2mm sponge gasket, and had specific instructions NOT to use sealant. It does make removal easier (which is handy for getting at the built in oven underneath without taking right out).

My worry here is the thickness required - I cannot tell for sure without a sample, but those tiles look like they have a 3-4mm change of thickness which is quite a lot to fill with foam and may leave a foam edge visible that attracts dirt and grease.

I can still veto this tile choice - and find some similar tiles with less or no bevel. I do wonder if the bevel is going to make cleaning tedious anyway - especially fat splashes around the cooking area.

Thanks

Tim
 09 January 2015 02:41 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



mapj1

Posts: 9692
Joined: 22 July 2004

That had me googling Yoozybox - something that has clearly passed me by. (and someone will now say they have been in use for years.)

Are they robust enough to be left on for ever as an alternate access hatch for a thing where there is an ugly four cables join in the back box ?

-------------------------
regards Mike
 09 January 2015 03:14 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



TimJWatts

Posts: 421
Joined: 07 August 2013

Originally posted by: mapj1

That had me googling Yoozybox - something that has clearly passed me by. (and someone will now say they have been in use for years.)



Are they robust enough to be left on for ever as an alternate access hatch for a thing where there is an ugly four cables join in the back box ?


Yoozy have been kicking around for a while - I ignored because if I'm doing my own tiling (as I did in the bathroom) I just take stuff off as I need to. I also trust myself not to fill the backbox with grout.

This tiling job I might sub out to a mate who did afloor for me (I hate tiling floors) - partly because I want some more floor work done, but it's not really enough to make a decent job so I don't mind lobbing this set of walls in for him. This way I can set up for him with the sockets live but safely lifted off the wall and not be in his way fiddling all the time.

Sorry - not seen the Yoozies first had to comment on whether they could be left on forever...
 09 January 2015 03:02 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



Manxie

Posts: 246
Joined: 08 January 2015

How's about relocating the positions so all boxes are centred in the tiles

Charlie
 09 January 2015 03:09 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



TimJWatts

Posts: 421
Joined: 07 August 2013

Originally posted by: Manxie

How's about relocating the positions so all boxes are centred in the tiles



Charlie


No

and that's the polite response

I've made everything nice with conduit between the boxes and I'm not hacking the wall to death for fashion... Luckily SWMBO expects this response in the event of totally impractical scenarios.

Unless she can work a line of flat tiles at box height into the design - but that might look weird.

I get to choose the cooker too because I'm the sort who downloads and reads the usage instructions before buying - I also do more cooking
 09 January 2015 03:12 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



Manxie

Posts: 246
Joined: 08 January 2015

Go on you would if you loved her
 09 January 2015 03:19 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



TimJWatts

Posts: 421
Joined: 07 August 2013

Originally posted by: Manxie

Go on you would if you loved her [IMG][/IMG]


It's taken me years to achieve this level of training - don't spoil it

My usual comeback is to say "what are you really trying to do", "then how about this visually quite similar solution that is ten times easier to do".

I actually do the same to myself, especially simplifying woodworking jobs until I can do them nicely (I'm rubbish at woodwork, but I can do anything that a combi mitre saw can handle!)
 09 January 2015 05:04 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



mapj1

Posts: 9692
Joined: 22 July 2004

On that basis how does SWBO consider a strip of Artex.at socket height..?

-------------------------
regards Mike
 09 January 2015 05:25 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



TimJWatts

Posts: 421
Joined: 07 August 2013

Originally posted by: mapj1

On that basis how does SWBO consider a strip of Artex.at socket height..?


 09 January 2015 05:39 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



davezawadi

Posts: 3955
Joined: 26 June 2002

Now this IP4x bit, you are using BS4343s are you? You only need to pass the chain or finger as IP2x for normal accessories is fine, 13A sockets are not waterproof although you may have missed this!

Regards
David

-------------------------
David
BSc CEng MIET
david@ZawadiSoundAndLighting.co.uk
 10 January 2015 06:00 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



TimJWatts

Posts: 421
Joined: 07 August 2013

Originally posted by: davezawadi

Now this IP4x bit, you are using BS4343s are you?
David


You know, I could *swear* I read that the tops of accessories needed to meet IP4X.

I might have been getting confused with CUs - Amndt 3??

One of those times, I wish I had BS7671 in a searchable format...
 09 January 2015 05:40 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



aligarjon

Posts: 3875
Joined: 09 September 2005

on denmans designa dimmer switches you can get a plastic packer for want of a better description, it enables you to fit the dimmer into a shallower box. I have seen them in double as well. they would be perfect so long as you don't have square edged sockets.

gary

-------------------------
Specialised Subject. The Bleedin Obvious. John Cleese
 09 January 2015 05:55 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



davezawadi

Posts: 3955
Joined: 26 June 2002

I have dealt with this before Tim. Why not fit the tiles around the sockets, rather than underneath? Needs some care while tiling but looks good and avoids the problem. Use a diamond disk in the angle grinder and carefully trim for virtually zero clearance. Job done (several hours later!).

-------------------------
David
BSc CEng MIET
david@ZawadiSoundAndLighting.co.uk
 09 January 2015 06:48 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



TimJWatts

Posts: 421
Joined: 07 August 2013

Originally posted by: davezawadi

I have dealt with this before Tim. Why not fit the tiles around the sockets, rather than underneath? Needs some care while tiling but looks good and avoids the problem. Use a diamond disk in the angle grinder and carefully trim for virtually zero clearance. Job done (several hours later!).


I must admit David I never thought of that.

My default is "tiles go under sockets" but if the tile edges can be precisely cut I can see it working.

What did you do about grout - did you leave a dry joint to the plate?
 09 January 2015 06:51 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



aligarjon

Posts: 3875
Joined: 09 September 2005

try googling socket box extension collar.

Gary

-------------------------
Specialised Subject. The Bleedin Obvious. John Cleese
 09 January 2015 10:12 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



TimJWatts

Posts: 421
Joined: 07 August 2013

Originally posted by: aligarjon

try googling socket box extension collar.



Gary


Collar

Garry - you sir are a genius.

Did not know those existed - but they look like the cleanest and neatest and simplest solution. Tile *around* them and they should bring the plate *just* forward of the tile - ideal!

I knew there had to be an answer. Than you - indeed. SWMBO thanks you too - or I get to live, one or the other
 10 January 2015 12:32 AM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



mapj1

Posts: 9692
Joined: 22 July 2004

Collar - working link..

That is the fix for the box where the cover plate wont go on and sit down too. (no its not one I put in, honestly..)

Cheers chaps

-------------------------
regards Mike
 09 January 2015 06:45 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



TimJWatts

Posts: 421
Joined: 07 August 2013

Originally posted by: aligarjon

on denmans designa dimmer switches you can get a plastic packer for want of a better description, it enables you to fit the dimmer into a shallower box. I have seen them in double as well. they would be perfect so long as you don't have square edged sockets.



gary


Thanks Gary - I'll check these out...
 09 January 2015 06:49 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



weirdbeard

Posts: 3116
Joined: 26 September 2011

Originally posted by: TimJWatts

I consider them at risk of water ingress as tiled walls get washed.




Hi tim, sounds like your only option is these or similar what ever the tiles!




-------------------------
:beer)
 09 January 2015 07:00 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



peteTLM

Posts: 3715
Joined: 31 March 2005

Personally id use sanitary silicon (doesnt discolour that quick) with the nozzle on the tiniest opening to do an initial 'inner' seal, and then once set, an outer cosmetic seal done against a masking tape line to neaten it up.

-------------------------
----------------------------------------
Lack of planning on your part doesn't make it an emergency on mine....

Every man has to know his limitations- Dirty Harry
 09 January 2015 07:14 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



Phillron

Posts: 1411
Joined: 18 January 2007

Some innovative ideas to solve the problem,however,there is another drastic solution,can you get a new wife ?
 09 January 2015 10:13 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



TimJWatts

Posts: 421
Joined: 07 August 2013

Originally posted by: Phillron

Some innovative ideas to solve the problem,however,there is another drastic solution,can you get a new wife ?
 09 January 2015 10:13 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



TimJWatts

Posts: 421
Joined: 07 August 2013

Originally posted by: Phillron

Some innovative ideas to solve the problem,however,there is another drastic solution,can you get a new wife ?


Hehe.

I like the one I have - and I do support this type of tile, otherwise I would not be here trying to make and effort and find a solution

I only veto her stuff when there really is no alternative - she knows that and whilst there may be grumbles, it's accepted.

I rely on her for all matters of colour - otherwise my house would probably look like this by now:

70s decor
 12 January 2015 04:34 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



AJJewsbury

Posts: 16102
Joined: 13 August 2003

You know, I could *swear* I read that the tops of accessories needed to meet IP4X.

416.2.2 ?
- Andy.
 12 January 2015 10:31 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



davezawadi

Posts: 3955
Joined: 26 June 2002

I am reluctant to comment, but are you sure that a standard socket fitted to a box doesn't? You seem to be suggesting that it needs to meet IP6X. Sealed against water is not an IP4X requirement as I am sure you know.

-------------------------
David
BSc CEng MIET
david@ZawadiSoundAndLighting.co.uk
 13 January 2015 09:14 AM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message



AJJewsbury

Posts: 16102
Joined: 13 August 2003

I'm sure a socket fitted directly against a box would be fine, it's just the deep bevels on metro tiles that introduce a 4 or 5mm triangular gap when the tiles are fitted between the back box and faceplate and a vertical joint in the tiles coincides with a socket position, which breach the 1mm max requirement of IP4X.
- Andy.
Statistics

New here?


See Also:



FuseTalk Standard Edition v3.2 - © 1999-2017 FuseTalk Inc. All rights reserved.

..